To's choice - Jason Atherton's latest venture is in an alley just off Oxford St. PSS has a large and sumptuous interior, with a nice rather than exciting atmosphere - which somehow sums up an evening which never quite took off.
We started with excellent bread and appetisers of pork scratchings served with brandade and something gingerey, washed down with some unusual and complex cocktails. My 'thyme traveller' was exquisite, although I am at pains to remember any of its ingredients.
My starter of tiny squid cubes in velvety cauliflower puree, surrounded by a rich seafood consomme was clever and divine. This was followed by melting ox cheek, shoulder and sirloin served with gorgeous horseradish mash.
Pud was apple, puff pastry and calvados cream - which I finished off without complaint.
Very attentive (and predominantly Eastern European) staff, though sadly none who's English could be accurately interpreted.
Ok, I'll give the restaurant 8/10.