Tuesday 17 March 2009

Fig-tastic!

First of all, the setting - an unremarkable ground floor in a residential street in Barnsbury. Nice and cosy, candles which induce both romance and partial blindness, dull art. The service had a certain wooden coolness, which is probably the only minor quibble I would make. The food that this Danish chef concocts is special.
How lovely to sample some inventive cuisine that has had some real thought put into it. My starter of oxtail bouillon with celeriac, truffle and smoked bone marrow was a bowl of heavenly flavours, no matter that the delicious but unattributed meat pieces therein were unidentifiable.
Next, my main course of stuffed quail, sweetbreads and morels was a beautifully tasty plate of food, the sort of cooking one would never do at home. This was followed by a licorice parfait with passion fruit ice-cream: a triumphant and surprising combination, superbly enhanced by the (recommended) sweet wine that accompanied it.
Our delightful companions (Su-To) chose excellent wines.
Fig is unusual in offering ambitious cooking with quality seasonal ingredients, at very reasonable prices. I'll give it an 8.25/10

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