Thursday 9 October 2008

Ti's view on Waterhouse

Well, we're off, if not to a flying start. The company of SuToJu was, as ever, a real pleasure - such good table manners all three possess! Alas, the inaugral choice of restaurant didn't quite live up to expectations. Despite the managements protestations of exemplary 'eco-credentials' and a kitchen that is 'state-of-the-art in environmental sustainability', Roux-trained Executive Chef Arthur Potts Dawson does not seem to possess the requisite eye for detail.
The setting is rather cool and charmless, like an upmarket pizzeria rather than an appropriate setting for gourmands such as us (why the ghastly jazz-lite music?). The service was delightfully friendly but distinctly amateurish - the worst type I always feel, and one that is often to be encountered in UK restaurants. As has already been stated, the waitress neither knew that one of the dishes ordered was unavailable, nor that BOTH of the wines we ordered were! (Do they have a 'biodynamic' wine list that is so very hard to source?)
OK, the food. I also chose the artichoke salad, which consisted of a small plate of green beans with some shards of uncooked artichoke heart. Now, for me, this is one of the most sublime vegetables, but it really needs cooking to bring out it's earthy flavours unless very young. At nearly £9.00 this was a rip-off, considering there was probably only half a small 'choke in there!
Next came stuffed partridge which came accompanied by the ubiquitous green beans. It was tasty enough, and well cooked. There was nothing but a pile of gnawed bones by the time I'd finished with it, so you could say I enjoyed it. The stuffing was either not there or made no impression.
I decided to plump for the ice-cream for dessert as there were two intriguing-sounding flavours on offer : mexican chili chocolate and halva. These were both very good, especially the chocolate with its cinnamon flavours and decent kick of heat.
Hits and misses all round, I'll give it a 3/10, and won't be returning.

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