Monday 6 October 2008

Waterhouse is reached through crossing a strange courtyard of flats surrounded by steel balconies and fire escapes. Once inside the room is pleasant enough if somewhat soul less in its use of wood, concrete, glass and steel. Things got off to a rather ominous start as Julia caught a bellini with her hand just as it was being placed on the table and the waitress although apologetic and quick to clear up, stood over Tim (who had a fair amount of the initial spillage on his trousers) with bellini-soden menus, dripping further on to his lap, as she mopped the table around him. She failed to notice that his napkin was completely wet and he chose to let it go.

Well we kicked off with the olives, bread and oil for dipping. The oil was good, as was the bread but the olives were rather disappointing. My meal went rapidly downhill from here. My starter of artichoke heart, grean beans and bortoli beans, was surprisingly dry and unseasoned. The artichoke hearts were woody and lack lustre. The dish was sporadically lifted by the odd caper which brought the flavours together and provided a bit of much needed punch.

My main course was an utter disaster. Poached haddock (even woodier than the artichoke hearts) lay unappetisingly on a bed of soggy chard, both swimming in cold watery milk, strangely reddened by the chard stems. I ate very little of it.

The meal ended on a pleasant note of stilton, onion relish and prunes, washed down with a glass of port. I enjoyed this melee of flavours enormously and although this dish was not 'cooked' by the chef, I have to say it was cleverly put together.

Here's hoping Ju-Ti come up with something a little more inspiring!

2 out of 10.

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